Paranymfi – Koudoumas Monastery – Ai Giannis
Sunday 14th December 2025
A hike along an ancient trail in the Asterousia Mountains, the southern wall of Heraklion Prefecture — or the “Mount Athos of Crete.”
We start from the village of Paranymphi (515 m) and end at the seaside settlement of Ai Giannis, below Kapetaniana. The path is easy to follow, well-marked, and walkable but with some small difficulties.
Along the way, we pass by the small church of Saint Paul, which dates back to the 14th century (reached after about 4 km on a dirt road). During the Venetian period, it was a monastery and flourished. It is built on the eastern side of Mount Kofinas, on a small plateau with a spring and running water. Following the path that descends through the gorge below Saint Paul, we find ourselves walking through one of the most impressive landscapes in Crete.
We then reach the welcoming Monastery of Koudoumas, after about six kilometres on a trail mostly through pine, cypress, and carob trees. The monks at Koudoumas are always willing to offer treats and hospitality to anyone passing through. It is a relatively new monastery, rebuilt in the 19th century by Parthenios and Evmenios, monks of the Monastery of Odigitria. Seeking a place of solitude, they discovered remains of a 14th-century monastery and a cave church on the beach of Koudoumas, and founded the present monastery there. The monastery houses the icon of Panagia Dexiokratousa, which was found in the konaki of Ali Pasha in Ioannina, donated to the Monastery by Eleni Skandalaki in 1957, and is considered miraculous. It is believed to have been painted in the 18th century at Kykkos Monastery in Cyprus.
Next, after about 2 km, we reach the cave of Saint Anthony, an old hermitage used by many ascetics, hanging literally above the sea. Water drips from the stalactites on the cave ceiling and is collected in cisterns; it is considered holy water. Today, a small chapel dedicated to Saint Anthony has been built there.
Our route and exploration of the Asterousia Mountains ends at the settlement of Ai Giannis below Kapetaniana, after passing the beautiful Elygia beach, the exit of the Volachás Gorge. From Ai Giannis, we return “to civilization” by ascending the dirt road back to Upper Kapetaniana in pickup trucks.
The Asterousia Mountains form a unique landscape — rugged, barren ground with striking relief. They have never been densely inhabited, nor have large villages or towns been built there. Vegetation is sparse, especially on the northern side, due to overgrazing. Their history, however, is significant. They were inhabited since the Neolithic era, as evidenced by finds at Miamou. They served as a natural wall protecting the Mesara plain from pirates and other enemies.
Their wild, inaccessible terrain and caves attracted monks and hermits, whom legends say remain hidden in their retreats, far from worldly life, descending at night to isolated chapels to light the vigil lamps and serve the liturgy. Some people leave bread or food outside the chapels so the hermits may find it. All these legends reflect the deep ascetic tradition of the Asterousia, which hosted some of the most flourishing monasteries since antiquity, as well as luminous figures of Orthodoxy who practiced asceticism in the hermitages of Crete’s “Mount Athos,” many of whom, during the years of Turkish occupation, participated actively in the struggle against the conquerors.
Payment should be made to the bank accounts of the Mountaineering Club of Heraklion (EOS Herakliou) and proof of payment sent by email to inform the Club.
IMPORTANT: Any transfer fees are at your own expense (OUR).
IBAN Alpha Bank: GR76 0140 6610 6610 0233 0001 166
IBAN Piraeus Bank: GR05 0171 9120 0069 1215 4711 881
Mobile: 6971535328 (for IRIS transfers only from Eurobank — not for information or participation)
Online participation form:
Leader: Nikos Anastasakis • Hiking hours: 7 • Difficulty level: 2
Departure time: 07:00 from the Archaeological Museum.
Information & Registration: Monday to Friday, 20:00–22:00, at the offices of the Heraklion Mountaineering Club, 53 Dikaiosynis St., Heraklion. Tel. 2810227609, email: info@eos-her.gr
